Training for Vail and the Outdoors

The World Cup

The World Cup in Vail this past weekend has been quite the experience. I may not have done as well as I had hoped, but I know I am ready for next time. Not only the competition itself, but also the preparation, taught me a lot about what it takes.

The problems were as I expected, difficult but doable. Even though I didn't achieve any tops, I felt like the moves were possible for me. I was also able to figure out the correct beta for all of the climbs. However, some small beta changes could have helped me, especially on Problem #3 where going slower may have been beneficial. This is something I need to work on.

Setting up for a go on Problem #2 (Photo cred: Jonathan Barolak)

For the weeks leading up to Vail, I emphasized variety in my training. This allowed me to develop many different muscle groups, improving how well rounded I am on the wall. Each week I did different amounts of hangboarding, campusing, pulling, weight training, suspension/ring training, core, endurance (circuits and 4x4s), swimming, and running. Swimming might seem like an odd ball workout for climbing, but I found it useful. Swimming, like climbing, works a large range of muscles, varying between strokes. Additionally, it gives your fingers a well needed rest after climbing for a few days straight. However, the one downfall of swimming is how it softens skin, which is why I wouldn't recommend it if you have an upcoming day of competition or outdoor climbing or if you have bad skin in general.

Over those few weeks, I didn't see an increase in climbing level per say, but I did notice an increase in consistency and how good I felt on hard climbs. I found myself consistently climbing V10 in the gym within one or two sessions and I generally felt more comfortable on the moves. I'm sure this will lead to an increase in climbing grade in the near future.

Just missing the dynamic move to the bonus of Problem #4
(Photo cred: Jonathan Barolak)

World Cups, however, require more than just general strength. Training technique, coordination, and route reading might not seem so straight forward, but is certainly not impossible. On-sight practice on new problems, creating your own competition style boulders, and outdoor climbing all help with this. With three Earth Treks climbers going to Vail, one section was reserved for World Cup boulders which are good coordination practice.

After some endurance training over the next few weeks, I am sure I'll be ready for my Lead World Cups in Europe over the summer. I only have two weeks left in Colorado before I leave for two months! I am really curious to see how I do in both disciplines. I am learning a lot this summer about competitions and training, which makes me confident about the seasons to come.

The Great Outdoors

My first attempt on
Return of the Jedi (V8)

Sticking the first desperate move on
Purity Control (V10) (Photo cred: Jonathan Barolak)

This summer I have hit up a few great bouldering locations around the front range and Vail. I got to go to Flagstaff Mountain, the Flatirons, Clear Creek, Matthew Winters, and Kluttergarden. All of these are new locations for me and I must say, they are quite spectacular. As it was my first time to all of these, I haven't secured any hard sends quite yet. I have been able to do a few V8s within a few goes including Rennak's Delight in the Flatirons and Return of the Jedi (left picture) near Vail. I am also very close to sending Purity Control (V10) at Matthew Winters. If you are ever in Colorado, I would strongly recommend all of these places, especially Clear Creek and the Kluttergarden if you're willing to do the drive. The rock all around Colorado is of high quality; it supplies enough friction without being too sharp. I haven't had any problems with my skin out here except on the sharp pockets of Purity Control.

Before I depart to Europe, I am really keen on trying my project from before a few times, possibly securing the FA. However, it looks like the Monastery and Mt. Evans will have to wait until I return. Hopefully I'll be in better shape by then and will be able to get some good sends.